Grimas | Ageing a chubby face

SHADOWING/HIGHLIGHTING

Important areas for shading are the eye sockets, the temples, the side of the nose and below the cheekbones. The vertical frown wrinkle and the naso-labial ('nose-lip') fold are also important areas to shadow.

On an older person the skin, where there is little or no bone, is sunken. On a younger person these parts are darkened (shadowed), the skin will appear to be really sunken at that spot.
When you age somebody with a spherical, round face the bone structure is hardly visible. In this case, do not shade the cheekbone on the round cheeks below, but emphasize on the cheeks. Draw a line below the nose-lips line that goes underneath the cheeks, for a baggy effect.

You draw the lines with a flat sable-hair brush. By placing it obliquely on the skin you get a sharp edge on one side and a fading effect on the other side.
To determine which side should be sharp and which side faded, you start from the centre of the face (nose). Create a fading effect towards the outside.

The lines from the eyes towards the forehead (vertical frowning wrinkles) and the naso-labial ('nose-lip') fold are therefore sharp in the direction of the nose and more blurred towards the outside. The naso-labial fold is easier to locate if one grimaces. The length of this line also determines the character to be made up (the longer, the more severe).

Bags under the eyes are sharp on the lower side and must be faded towards the upper side. The parts of the face that have not been shaded now seem to have been brought forward.

Please note: there is a tendency to draw in all the lines (wrinkles, crow's feet) when doing the make-up. When used for large distances (theatre, opera) it is advisable not to do this. These smaller lines will not be noticed, even from a short distance away and will appear dark smudges from a larger distance.

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