Grimas | Hooked nose

APPLYING A BASE

Take the Camouflage Make-up Pure out with a clean spatula and work from the spatula, or directly from the stick. Apply it with a slightly damp latex sponge or make-up sponge onto the skin.
Apply Camouflage Make-up Pure to the lips as well, to make the lips look narrower, to obtain a mean effect.
Work the base out properly, up into the hairline, and do not forget the ears and neck. This is how you avoid a mask-like effect.

Next, you subtly lighten/shadow with Crème Make-up.

CAMOUFLAGE MAKE-UP PURE = Camouflage Make-up Pure

CRÈME MAKE-UP PURE = Crème Make-up Pure

Shadowing
This example makes use of the principle of 'aging'. Important areas for shading are the eye sockets, the temples, the side of the nose and below the cheekbones. You draw the lines with a flat sable-hair brush. By placing it obliquely on the skin you get a sharp edge on one side and a fading effect on the other side. To determine which side should be sharp and which side faded, you start from the centre of the face (nose). Create a fading effect towards the outside. The lines from the eyes towards the forehead (vertical frowning wrinkles) and the naso-labial ('nose-lip') fold are therefore sharp in the direction of the nose and more blurred towards the outside. The naso-labial fold is easier to locate if one grimaces. The length of this line also determines the character to be made up (the longer, the more severe). Bags under the eyes are sharp on the lower side and must be faded towards the upper side.

The parts of the face that have not been shaded now seem to have been brought forward.

Lightening
If the non-shaded parts are lightened, this will enhance the effect of bringing those areas "forward".

Place shadowlines near the neck from the corners of the jaw. These lines nearly come together at the neck. Between the lines you can lighten if needed.

FINISHING

The shading and lightening must blend into the basic colour in a natural way. If necessary, blur the segments and lines that are to be faded using a dry make-up sponge. You do this with a dabbing action, without wiping.
You powder the face off with Grimas Transparent Powder, Fixing Powder or Make-up Powder. Apply the powder on top of the make-up. You can do this with a Make-up Sponge or a Velour Powder Puff. Allow to settle in and then remove any excess powder with a Powder Rouge Brush.

Colour the lips with a dark colour (has a narrowing effect visually) and do not colour them right up to the natural contour. Narrow lips give a mean look.

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