SHADOWING

Important areas for shading are the eye sockets, the temples, the side of the nose and below the cheekbones. The vertical frown wrinkle and the naso-labial ('nose-lip') fold are also important areas to shadow.

You draw the lines with a flat sable-hair brush. By placing it obliquely on the skin you get a sharp edge on one side and a fading effect on the other side. To determine which side should be sharp and which side faded, you start from the centre of the face (nose). Create a fading effect towards the outside. The lines from the eyes towards the forehead (vertical frowning wrinkles) and the naso-labial ('nose-lip') fold are therefore sharp in the direction of the nose and more blurred towards the outside. Bags under the eyes are sharp on the lower side and must be faded towards the upper side.

The parts of the face that have not been shaded now seem to have been brought forward.

LIGHTENING

If the non-shaded parts are lightened, this will enhance the effect of bringing those areas "forward".

Apply white make-up to the higher parts of the forehead, above the temple, next to the frown wrinkles on the wings of the nose and on top of the nose. The eyebag is also lightened a little.
Now you lighten the cheekbones and the outsides of the naso-labial fold, the higher part above the upper lip, the corners of the mouth and on the chin.

The shading and lightening must blend into the basic colour in a natural way. If necessary, blur the segments and lines that are to be faded with the fingers or a dry make-up sponge. You do this with a dabbing action, without wiping.
FINISHING

After shading and lighting out you can apply fine red veins using a Stubble Sponge. Squeeze the Stipple Sponge, press it onto the make-up (dark red colour), test it on your hand and apply to the cheekbone, not too high or too low.

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