Set out ready for use:
Towel / cape
Water bowls
Tissues
Straightener / iron
Scissors
Comb Hairspray
Cotton buds
Cotton wool pads
Do not use ready-to-use cleansing cloths.
Before starting, you ensure your hands and nails are well cleaned. File your nails if necessary, so that there are no snags. By doing this you prevent damages on the face and risk of infection.
Always work using clean materials (sponges, brushes, spatulas, water bowls) and change the water regularly.
Get the subject to put on any clothes beforehand that have to be put on over the head. Protect your models clothing with a hairdressing cape or a towel.
For a Santa Claus/Father Christmas you use a ready-to-wear beard set. To conceal the edges of this beard set and to create the eyebrows you use pieces of Wool Crepe. You make this beforehand.
Apply a base with Grimas Crème Make-up Pure 1033.
Ageing a young face is based on a simple principle. On an older person the skin, where there is little or no bone, is sunken. On a younger person these parts are darkened (shadowed), the skin will appear to be really sunken at that spot.
For ageing we use Crème Make-up Pure because this works out easily and has good fluidic properties. For shadowing a brown colour is used. With Santa, do not apply the lines too strongly.
Important areas for shading are the eye sockets, the temples, the side of the nose and below the cheekbones. The vertical frown wrinkle and the naso-labial ('nose-lip') fold are also important areas to shadow. You draw the lines with a flat sable-hair brush. By placing it obliquely on the skin you get a sharp edge on one side and a fading effect on the other side. To determine which side should be sharp and which side faded, you start from the centre of the face (nose). Create a fading effect towards the outside. The lines from the eyes towards the forehead (vertical frowning wrinkles) and the naso-labial ('nose-lip') fold are therefore sharp in the direction of the nose and more blurred towards the outside. The naso-labial fold is easier to locate if one grimaces. Bags under the eyes are sharp on the lower side and must be faded towards the upper side.
The parts of the face that have not been shaded now seem to have been brought forward.
If the non-shaded parts are lightened, this will enhance the effect of bringing those areas "forward". This too should be done subtly in the case of Santa Claus.
Apply white make-up to the higher parts of the forehead, above the temple, next to the frown wrinkles on the wings of the nose and on top of the nose.
After shading and lighting out you can apply fine red veins using a Stubble Sponge. You squeeze the stubble sponge, press it onto the make-up (dark red colour), test it on the hand and apply it to the cheeks and nose.
Do not make the nose too red, as this gives the effect of a drunkard.
Pulling Wool Crepe loose
Pull two braids of about 20 cm Wool Crepe loose from the strings around which they have been wound. If you feel resistance, you cut the strings loose so that you can continue.
Straighten out the parts you are working with, using a curler, styling tongs or an iron (on the 'wool' setting). Do not pull it too hard so the braids remain intact.
Now make the pieces that you are working with longer and looser: run them through your hands and pull them gently bit by bit in the lengthwise direction, but so that the pieces still remain intact.
Carry out the following actions twice: pull the loosened piece into two in the middle, in the lengthwise direction along with the hairs; then place the two pieces on top of each other and divide them into two again. Keep the hands about 20 cm apart.
Note: using hairspray or plastic spray on the Wool Crepe will make it inflammable.
Attaching the Wool Crepe edges
If necessary, the elastic of the beard can be fixed to the hair with hairpins.
Protect the beard set edge with the side of an open hand and apply Grimas Mastix Extra directly above the beard edge (a strip about 1 cm wide) and press the cutting surface/obliquely cut side into the glue.
Please note: do not comb!
Pull a braid of about 10 cm of Wool Crepe loose from the strings that it has been wound around. If you feel resistance, you cut the strings loose so that you can continue.
To get a better contrast on the photos a dark-coloured Wool Crepe is used for this example.
Now make the piece that you are working with longer and looser: run it through your hands and pull it gently bit by bit in the lengthwise direction, but so that the piece still remains intact.
Hint: You can also use plastic spray for strengthening.
Note: using hairspray or plastic spray on the Wool Crepe will make it inflammable.
Fix them on top of the natural eyebrows. Apply the adhesive over the own eyebrows. Work from the inside outwards. Press the obliquely cut surface onto the adhesive and work the Wool Crepe eyebrows outwards.
Hint: if someone has expressive dark eyelashes or is very young, you can make the eyelashes 'colourless' by applying a little Water Make-up (Pure) to them in a light skin colour.
You powder the face off with Grimas Transparent Powder, Fixing Powder or Make-up Powder. Apply the powder on top of the make-up. You can do this with a Make-up Sponge or a Velour Powder Puff. Allow to settle in and then remove any excess powder with a Powder Rouge Brush.
Finally, put on the wig and the hat.
Wool Crepe that has been stuck on with Mastix Extra you remove with Mastix Remover. You can then already pull some of the hairs loose and remove them with a tissue. The remaining hairs and the adhesive you remove with a cotton wool pad and Mastix Remover.
Massage Grimas Multi Remover Pure or Cleansing Cream into the skin and remove with a tissue. Cleanse the skin afterwards with Grimas Cleansing Lotion.
Store the make-up in a dry and cool place until the next time you use it.
The sponges are disposable so you can throw them away after use. If you do want to reuse them, first rinse them under the tap with some soap or shampoo or wash them in the washing machine (in a net bag or pillow case), set to at least 60°C.
You can clean brushes with water and soap or shampoo. Put the moist hairs of the brushes back into shape by hand after washing. Dry the brushes lying flat on a towel and do not place them upright, since that causes the moisture to run down into the shaft.
